Saturday, May 02, 2020

A Bottle of Raffia-Covered Chianti and the Stars and Bars


Very Young - Very Foolish

Odd how time and distance can play tricks with both recollection and total recall. I was sure I’d written about one of the defining moments of my late teens – but now I find that I have not. Or at least if I have, I can’t find it.

Part of the problem with trying to remedy a poor memory and/or poor organisational skills is that time is a poor mnemonic. I’m winding the clock back to the late-sixties. And, I’m trying to get specific about time and place. Not very successfully, with either in truth.

Let’s work backwards from what I’m sure I know. Well, pretty sure anyhow. I was working at 70-Hi Drive-In on Noland Road and 39th Street in Independence, Missouri. Of that, I’m positive. Larry Stoner was my Bun-Boy. (lest the alliterative connotations become too complex, let me explain. In order to produce good quality burgers, the buns needed to be placed on the warm grill for a short time. This was the Bun-Boy’s job. The cooked burgers were then placed in the warmed buns and wrapped in grease-proof paper by the Bun-Boy ready for dispatch – simples).

Reece Isbell had a big old Oldsmobile. Any way you slice it: it was big. Somebody, and it was usually Bun-Boy who had these ideas, decided we should go to New Orleans. Precisely why, as I recall, was never actually explained. I believe it had something to do with the ubiquitous Spring Break. So, to New Orleans we went.

The year is 1965. We were young and particularly foolish: we had no real idea of the time and distance involved. Don’t forget this is well before the advent of the interstate road network. Somehow we came to the improbable realization that all we had to do was go south on US 71 and keep going.

At that time, US 71 ran right through Kansas City, but it conveniently split north of the Missouri river to form Highway 71 By-pass - now Missouri Highway 291, which runs from north of Liberty, Mo. to south of Harrisonville Mo.

The southern terminus of US 71 is in Louisiana, between Port Barre and Krotz Springs, Louisiana, at an intersection with U.S. 190, so I discovered on Google.The highway follows a northwesterly course through Louisiana, passing through the communities of Alexandria, Montgomery, Coushatta, and Shreveport. From its southern terminus to Shreveport, US 71 has largely been superseded by Interstate 49 - which is eventually planned to roughly follow the US 71 alignment as far north as Kansas City, Missouri. After Shreveport, US 71 follows a northerly course, crossing into Arkansas just north of Ida, Louisiana.

Bottom line, in any era - it’s a long way to New Orleans and without modern roads it takes a long time. Even today, with the interstate network fully operational it is about a 13 hour drive. My research tells me we did it in 15 hours and that must have been some kind of record for the time!
My researchers are trying to confirm the dates. I’m pretty sure it was spring break 1965. So, whilst it was common practice for college students to head to Florida for Spring Break we, being just as poor as we were stupid, decided New Orleans would do just as well. The plan was to share the driving in shifts. It must have been the Memorial Day weekend as Reece wasn’t working. I think we left about 4 or 5 in the afternoon. I do remember taking a shift at driving whilst it was still a bit light. I do remember falling asleep on the back seat. Those old Oldsmobiles were very roomy!
During my next driving stint we were deep in the Ozarks. The road was narrow with many bends, and some of them were quite sharp. It must have been dark by then.
I distinctly remember closing my eyes for just a few seconds, opening them, closing them for another few seconds, realising that nothing terrible had happened, closing them for a bit longer and finally jolting awake as the car lurched into the gravel at the side of the road. The other two woke up immediately. I was banned from driving.

We went on into Louisiana. I had lost my sense of time and place. We were hungry. I spied a McDonalds. We stopped - at least at McD you always know what you are getting. I can remember standing at the counter and the mouth of the girl on the other side moving and a sound being produced. It did not ring any bells. I can distinctly remember thinking, “Why can I not understand this person, after all we are still in America,” Fact was, we were not - we were in deep south Louisiana, where English is barely spoken.

I had this confirmed some years later when I was invited by Uncle Sam to avail myself of the opportunity to serve my country and see the world - via Ft Polk, Louisiana. We had a large number of local boys in our basic training company. Their acquaintance with the English language was only passing. They were super-fluent in Cajun French with last names like LeRoux, Fontenot, Benoit and Broussard and I was immediately reminded of the girl in McDonalds.

Eager to see the sights we drove though Lake Charles - which Google conveniently tells us:
Distance from Lake Charles to New Orleans: There are 189.03 miles from Lake Charles to New Orleans in east direction and 205 miles (329.92 kilometers) by car, following the I-10 and US-90 E route. Lake Charles and New Orleans are 3 hours 19 mins far apart, if you drive non-stop . From this I conclude it was about noon when we went through Lake Charles and maybe three in the afternoon when we hit Canal Street. We had no money for a motel room, so we took turns changing out of the grubby clothes we had on into what we assumed would wow the local girls into immediate submission. We found Bourbon Street and saw the sights. We cruised Canal Street for some hours. We mooched around Bourbon Street whilst it got progressively darker and rowdier. We had a great time. We had no luck -girl-wise - no change there then.

Let me readily confess that I like New Orleans. Despite the fact that they don’t really speak English the natives are unerringly friendly and approachable. Had they known that we were effectively broke and exceedingly impoverished free-loaders, perhaps things might have been different. But we must have been lucky as we had a great time just wandering around.

My recollection is that eventually we got so tired that we had to get a room. We found the cheapest motel ever in St Charles and grabbed some much needed shut-eye. Knowing that what goes up, must come down (or perhaps what drives to New Orleans must drive back to Independence might be more accurate) we had another quick look around and bought some souvenirs to show the folks back home. Larry Dean had his heart set on a Forget Hell license plate. This has a caricature of a Confederate Veteran holding a banner which says “Forget Hell” . I insisted that we buy a cheap raffia covered bottle of Chainit to drink on the way back. He has not now and will not ever forgive me for being so selfish. (It was my money!)

I reckon we left in the afternoon with Reece and Larry doing the driving and me curled up on the back seat. A fact of which they are overly-fond of reminding me. Getting to New Orleans was hard. Getting back was harder still and far more tedious.

During the first part of the long road home I had spent a few exhausting hours trying to remove the cork from the Chianti bottle and having to listen to Stoner bitch about not having his Forget Hell license plate. I never did get the cork out completely, but I did manage to cut into it with a pen-knife and poke most of the cork down into the bottle. Therefore if you had a swig you mostly got a mouth-full of cork bits with a smidgen of Chianti to boot. Tasted like it came from a tourist trap - which, of course, it did.

At some point in the wee hours, the boys got so exhausted that they had to pull over. My offer to take a spell at the wheel was rudely dismissed, so I got the Stars and Bars, climbed out on the lid of the Oldsmobile trunk (very copious indeed) and went to sleep. The boys were cutting Z’s in the car. 

I was awoken by the sound of cars arriving and strange voices. We were parked in a kind of public picnic area somewhere deep in the Arkansas Ozarks. I half woke up, looked at the Deliverance-types who had pulled in, wrapped the flag more tightly around me (thinking that deep in Arkansas even the baddest of the bad would not harm a kid wrapped in the holy flag). And, I was right. The other two chickens were in the car soiling their underpants.

We made it back - I have no sensible estimate of how long it took.

The flag eventually ended up in Pa Hall’s basement where it hung for many years and oversaw many a party and drinking session - with the odd game of pool thrown in for fun.

And the rest, as they say, is legend.

I'm just waiting for those other two to tell me I got this all wrong and set the record straight!


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